The Cunapo Southern Main Road from Sangre Grande to Biche
There are many mobile nature tours throughout Trinidad and Tobago where you enjoy scenic drives through cool mountains, along undulating lowlands and coconut fringed coastlines, and imposing wetlands. Most include stops at various vantage points to further highlight areas of attraction.
Of the most popular are loop tours such as the Maracas/Blanchisseuse/Arima circuit, the Maraval/Paramin/Saut d’Eau climb, the ‘round the island’ Tobago, the Manzanilla to Mayaro coconut stretch continuing to Guayaguayare and through the southern undulations of Edward Trace to Moruga, and the Cedros to Icacos cut through the wetlands after which there is the choice of back-pedalling and continuing through Erin eastwards.
Local families on their private drives tend to spend less time stopping at points of interest save and except refresher stops. They drive straight to a beach or riverside where they can relax for the day.
Guided touristic tours, however, have specific stops where other elements of the area such as the history, culture and cuisine are highlighted.
The Maracas/Blanchisseuse/Arima circuit is one of those tours that encompass a range of activities at each stop. Lots of scenic views of the North Coast can be enjoyed en route to Maracas, with a short stop at the lookout to pick up sweetmeats and another at the beach site for local fare. Birdwatchers look forward to opportunities on the final leg of the tour along the Blanchisseuse to Arima mountain road.
Because of bad roads, other routes have been taken off the list. One that still merits an occasional visit because of the beautiful stretches of forest along the way is the Cunapo Southern Main Road from Sangre Grande to Biche. This route cuts through the lush greenery of the Mt Harris elevation and continues onto the wetlands where there is more beauty to behold.
Points of interest along the way include the village of Coal Mine and its old cave site where the carbon deposit from which the village got its name was extracted years ago. Pieces of the fossil fuel can be seen along the bed of the small stream in the vicinity of the cave.
Further along this East Central stretch, you meet a sandstone boulder at the side of the road that dates back to the Paleocene age when sands covered an old sea floor here. The date of 60 million years ago is on the signage. Another larger boulder sits some way below the immediate hill.
Where the road undulates along the contours of Mt Harris, the overhang of the forest canopy creates a dappled effect on the road where sunlight filters through. This is a popular camera-clicking area during a sunshiny day. This writer found that this particular spot where the canopy reaches across and intertwines with that along the other side of the road not only provides an interplay of light and shadow below but facilitates the crossing of primates along the sturdy branches and vines.
As the overhead vociferous sounds of a band of Red Howler Monkeys break the stillness of the forest, it is a treat to also see their presence in a crappo tree. We counted eight of these reds who did not seem too bothered by us, except the one who swung his way from ground level up to the canopy in less than a minute when we stopped.
They continued communicating with each other, preening each other, every now and then crossing a branch and parting the leaves to peer down at us. The occasional passing of vehicles did not disturb them either, as they inserted their rights to this territory.
At the base of the hill, a stream crosses the road reminding us of the small waterfall we had visited over a decade ago. Located near the top of the mountain, it is usually a challenge to visit because of the swarms of mosquitoes that attack en route, a legacy of the extensive swamps in the flatlands nearby.
There is the option of continuing your driving tour direct to Biche or veering off along the Plum Mitan Road where swamplands and alternating agricultural plots showcase water birds, much to the delight of birdwatchers. Great egrets as well as the much smaller and excitable wattled jacanas or lily trotters provide welcome photographic opportunities.
